"Hargraves Lawn Care did a fantastic job cutting, trimming and clearing my very overgrown grove, It hasn't looked this good in many years" -Betty J.
" I really like the way Hargraves Lawn care takes their time when mowing our lawn and makes sure that we are completely satisfied before leaving" - Terry S. South
Hargraves Lawn Care offers a wide range of services covering all of the major areas of lawn and landscape management. Serving both residential and commercial clients; we are here to help you with all aspects of your lawn and landscape maintenance. Feel free to contact us with any questions you have.
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Hargraves Normal Lawn and Landscape Maintenance Services
- Mowing
- Edging
- Turf Trimming
- Air-sweeping
- Leaf Removal
- Bed Edging
- Bed Weed Control
- Mulching
- Pruning
- Shrub Trimming/Shaping
- Hedge Trimming
Hargraves Lawn Care Services
- Turf Fertilizer Applications
- Turf Weed Control
- Core Aeration
- De-thatching
- Lawn Renovations
- Seeding
Hargraves Lawn Care Aeration Service
Aeration only
Aeration + Over Seed
Aeration + fertilizer
Aeration + Over seed + fertilizer
Lime Only
Aeration + Lime + Over seed + Fertilizer
Core Aeration
Power core aeration is one of the most important cultural practices available for your lawn. Aeration helps control thatch, improves the soil structure, helps create growth pockets for new roots, and opens the way for water and fertilizer to reach the root zone of your lawn.
Annual or semiannual aeration is advised for all lawns on heavy clay soils, those with a thatch buildup, and any lawn that needs to be "thickened up". Aeration removes thousands of small cores of soil 1" to 3" in length from your lawn. These cores "melt"
back into the lawn after a few rainfalls, mixing with whatever thatch exists on your lawn. The holes created by aeration catch fertilizer and water. Turf roots naturally grow toward these growth pockets and thicken in the process. Aeration holes also relieve pressure from compacted soils, letting oxygen and water move more freely into the root zone.
Thatch on your lawn works like a thatched roof. This layer of roots, stems and other plant parts sheds water and prevents fertilizers and insect controls from moving freely into the soil. Thatch that is too heavy can make major lawn renovation necessary. Regular aeration helps thatch break down naturally by mixing the soil cores into the thatch and speeding up
decomposition. Performed once or twice per year, aeration significantly reduces thatch and improves turf growth.
Hargraves Lawn Care Lime Service
Lime "sweetens" your soil. In areas where soil is naturally "sour" (or acidic), this is extremely important to growing a healthy lawn. Lime helps improve lawn color and density, helps control thatch, and increases root development.
Hargraves lime application service helps keep the chemistry of your soil in (ph) balance so that you can have, and enjoy, a thicker, greener, healthier lawn. Lime affects color, thatch and root development. When your soil pH is too low (acidic) it needs lime to bring it back into (ph) balance. Soil that is too acidic causes "fertilizer lock-up". This means that fertilizer and important micronutrients become locked up in the soil and unavailable to the grass plants.
The results of this lock-up are that the grass becomes thin and yellow, thatch may build faster, and root growth slows down.
A lawn in this condition is called "unthrifty" because even when properly fertilized, it can't make use of the plant food applied to become thick and stay green.
We suggest annual liming for acidic soils. It helps everything else we do, work even better. That's what makes lime a great value for you and your lawn.
Hargraves Lawn Care Over Seeding Service
Over seeding only
Over seed + fertilizer
Aeration + Over Seed
Aeration + fertilizer
Aeration + Over seed + fertilizer
Preparations For Over Seeding Lawns
Since you will be sowing seed not over an open stretch of soil, but rather over existing grass, take into consideration that the seed will be competing with that existing grass. If nothing else, the latter will rob the seed of some sunlight. To give the seed a better chance, mow the existing grass, cutting it shorter than you normally would. Normally, you should cut grass to a height of 3"-3.5". In this case, reduce that height to 1.5"-2". Also, bag or rake up the clippings in preparation for Over seeding lawns, even if normally you don't. You want to give seeds the best chance of making good contact with the soil, and clippings would just get in the way.
Another step to take to promote contact between seeds and soil is core aeration, or "lawn aeration." This step will help reduce lawn thatch, which stands in the way between grass seeds and the soil they'd like to call home. In severe cases, you may need to add a layer of topsoil before Over seeding lawns. For instance, due to shallow tree roots popping up on the lawn, your topsoil layer may be too thin. Spread 1/4" of screened topsoil over such an area, and rake it in.
Over Seeding Lawns
The bag of grass seed that you buy for Over seeding lawns should have information on the back concerning recommended seeding rates and Over seeding rates. Note the difference: you don't need to spread as much seed when Over seeding lawns as when starting new lawns.
For the proper operation of Over seeding lawns, use a spreader. Set the spreader to the recommended Over seeding rate. At the same time, apply a starter fertilizer for better results. The grass seeds must be watered properly, in order to germinate. Use just a fine spray, as you don't want to create a flood! The soil should be kept evenly moist, which may mean waterings once or twice per day (depending on the weather), for several weeks. After the grass blades sprout, you'll still need to water a few times per week. Five weeks after the grass has sprouted, apply a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer at the recommended rate; repeat in another six weeks.
The best time for Over seeding lawns that have cool-season grasses is in September; the second-best time for Over seeding lawns is in March .
Thatching & clean up
Thatching & clean up + Over Seed
Thatching & clean up + fertilizer
Thatching & clean up + Over seed + fertilizer
Lawn thatching is an important trick of the trade that Landscapers use. Since thatch builds
gradually beneath the grass surface, it is understandable why most people overlook this
important task.
What is Thatch?
It is an interwoven layer of mostly dead roots, crowns, and stems, located between the soil and the green lawn.
Why is Some Thatch Good?
Cushions the lawn from foot traffic. Helps to conserve soil moisture.
Why is Too Much Thatch Bad?
- Prevents water and nutrients from reaching the plant roots.
- Absorbs pesticide/fungicide, preventing them from doing their job.
- Reduces space available for new grass. When crowded by thatch, new grass tends to grow rapidly as they seek light and space, thus producing long, thin leaves with shallow roots.
- Grass root systems can grow into the thatch rather than into
the soil. - Harbors diseases.
- Aggravates insect problems. Thatch favors insects by hiding them from their predators.
How do you Slow Thatch Buildup?
- Use insecticides sparingly.
- Use grass that forms less thatch, like perennial ryegrass or tall fescue.
- Mow top 1/3 of grass at a time.
- Water deeply, but infrequently.
What are the Indications that it's Needed
- Greater than average incidence of disease and insect problems.
- Grass dries out and dies during hot, dry weather.
- Cut a core sample—3 inches deep. Do it when thatch layer reaches ¾ inch.
How is lawn thatching done?
Powered lawn thatcher is a tool with blades that spin vertically to pull excess thatch and debris from the lawn.
When is the Best Time?
- Cool season lawns—early fall. Early spring is also ok
- Warm season lawns—late spring to early summer because grass is actively growing.
Hargraves Lawn Care Fertilization Program
Feb - March:
Pre-emergent for crabgrass
April early May:
Pre-emergent + feed
Early July:
Fertilizer + weed control application
September:
Over seeding time + starter fertilizer
November:
Winterizer + weed control application
Our final application for the year is a special winter fertilizer to slowly feed your lawn through the late fall and early winter, without forcing new growth. This late treatment helps with early spring green up because the roots have stored necessary nutrients over the winter. Lawns that do not receive a winter application take longer to green up in the spring.